Did Fernand Point write the greatest cookbook ever? Apr 15
9 comments Latest by tyler rooney
“Ma Gastronomie” is a cookbook/biography by the great French chef Fernand Point (1897–1955).
Charlie Trotter says, “If someone said to me I could only have one cookbook, this is the one.”
Thomas Keller says, “I believe Fernand Point is one of the last true gourmands of the 20th century. His ruminations are extraordinary and thought-provoking. He has been an inspiration for legions of chefs.”
Keller told Charlie Rose (video below) that Point is the one chef, either living or dead, that he would like to meet. Every new employee at Keller’s restaurants, French Laundry and Per Se, has to read the book.
It’s more his feeling about food and his love affair with food…His point was you need to take ownership of what you do. Treat it like it’s yours and one day it will be. Have a true dedication and a true commitment to cuisine and that will elevate you beyond others.
In the book, Point emphasizes craft and subtlety over efficiency and style. He defied traditions where he felt that the traditions did not serve the cuisine. Escoffier On Line has a review with some quotes from the book:
- The cuisinier loses his reputation when he becomes indifferent to his work.
- La grande cuisine must not wait for the guest; its the guest who must wait for la grande cuisine.
- Inattention never pays off in the kitchen.
- When one thinks of la grande cuisine one cannot think of money; the two are incompatible. La grande cuisine is extremely expensive-but that does not mean one cannot do very good cooking with inexpensive ingredients.
- Every morning the cuisinier must start again at zero, with nothing on the stove. That is what real cuisine is all about.
- Cookbooks are as alike as brothers. The best is the one you write yourself.
- For a chef to be respected his superiority must not be in doubt. He must excel in everything; including pastry cooking and purchasing.
- In all professions without doubt, but certainly in cooking one is a student all his life.
- The best cooking is that which takes into consideration the products of the season.
- Wines that are too old are not suitable for cooking. Fire cannot give them back the strength they have lost.
- One of the most important things that distinguish man from other animals is that man can get pleasure from drinking without being thirsty.
- Success is the sum of a lot of small things done correctly.
- If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony.
- Every country, every region, has it's local specialties about which it's rash to say, they're not very good, because nature supplies every taste.
- As far as cuisine is concerned one must read everything, see everything, hear everything, try everything, observe everything, in order to retain in the end, just a little bit.
Looking for a copy? It’s been out of print for a while, but the book will be revived in June 2008 by The Rookery Press.
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9 comments so far
Sarah 15 Apr 08
What the obsession with Charlie Rose?
ML 15 Apr 08
What the obsession with Charlie Rose?
He’s a great interviewer who has interesting guests.
brad Hurley 15 Apr 08
Many of these same messages actually come through loud and clear in the Disney/Pixar film Ratatouille. It’s worth watching for anyone who cares about food and craft.
Matt 15 Apr 08
My wife got me a copy of Ma Gastronomie for Christmas, along with a personal letter from Thomas Keller explaining what the book meant to him. It’s quite inspirational to read the thoughts of two men so dedicated to quality and the pursuit of perfection.
In The Making of a Chef Michael Ruhlman describes how serving burnt root vegetables for a CIA lunch became a moral issue for him. I think to become the best in any field you have to have a similar attitude – quality is about more than “good enough” – it’s about doing things right.
royal8 15 Apr 08
Is that Gov Ed Rendell of Pennsylvania as chef Fernand Point in Ma Gastronomie the movie?
Mike 15 Apr 08
Great clip. His point about taking ownership of your work reminded me of what they used to say about Frank Lloyd Wright:
“He believed in and belonged to himself.”
Charlie Trotter 15 Apr 08
All my life I’ve been mailed newspaper clippings of Charlie Trotter’s restaurant, because my name is also Charlie Trotter. One of these days I hope he and I can sit down for coffee, fancy cakes and a few laughs. Maybe he’ll even be in one of my comics.
That would be gigantic.
Mike Gowen 16 Apr 08
Great quotes…but I have to call bullshit on one of them…
“One of the most important things that distinguish man from other animals is that man can get pleasure from drinking without being thirsty.”
I can put a bowl of water down in front of my dog and if he is not thirsty, he won’t show any interest. But if I then put a bowl of juice (or soda, milk, etc) he will undoubtedly drink it…and probably experience more pleasure that I could ever feel towards the same juice :)
tyler rooney 16 Apr 08
i caught that thomas keller interview on charlie rose a couple weeks back. what a gem of an interview. keller has such a passion for his craft and i love his “ratatouille” ethos on cooking and food.
rose has two interviews with gordon ramsey that are also worth checking out.
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